One Pot Chicken and Barley for the Jewish New Year

With the fall Jewish holidays on weekdays this year spending the whole day in the kitchen is just not going to be possible for me. So my solution for a “special” holiday meal is to make a chicken and barley one-pot dish with Eastern European Jewish flavors and ingredients and with lots of unattended cooking time. It can also be made ahead and reheated. Accompanied by challah, green salad, and maybe some pickles, and followed by a light fruit dessert you’ve got holiday dinner, at least at my house.

Holiday One Pot Chicken with Barley
Serves 6

Barley has a distinctive texture and can take assertive flavors. The chicken breast halves stay juicy since they are not cut up but browned and cooked intact.

This is one of those dishes that taste even better when made ahead. If you make this in a casserole dish safe to use on the stove, you can make it ahead, store it in the fridge, reheat it in the oven and serve it all in the same dish (see note below). If you are making this recipe the same day you’ll have almost an hour of hands-off cooking time (and only one pot to clean later).

If you are making this for Kol Nidre dinner you may want to cut down on the spice, leave out the garlic and reduce the salt, since many folks like to minimize those tastes before they fast.

6 skinless and boneless chicken breast halves (about 2.25 pounds)
¼ tsp dried, ground oregano
¼ tsp + ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp + ½ tsp salt
2 Tbs + 1 Tbs olive oil
1 large yellow onion, peeled and sliced into thin (1/8” thick) rings (about 1 cup)
1-2 cloves of garlic, peeled and minced
1/8 tsp dried, ground ginger
¼ tsp dried red pepper flakes or to taste (optional)
½ cup + ½ cup + 3 cups good quality chicken stock
1 cup chopped celery (about 2 stalks)
1 cup chopped carrot (about 2 medium carrots)
1 cup chopped red bell pepper (about 1 large)
2 cups chopped crimini (small brown) or white button mushrooms
1 cup uncooked pearl barley, rinsed and drained
½ tsp sweet or hot paprika (optional)
¼ cup chopped fresh parsley for garnish

Season the breast halves on both sides with the oregano and ¼ tsp of salt and ¼ tsp of pepper. Heat the 2 Tbs of oil in a large (12” or bigger) sauté pan, chicken fryer, Dutch oven bottom or stove-top safe casserole over medium high heat. Add the chicken breasts and brown on each side until golden brown. Work in batches if necessary so as to not crowd the pan.

Remove the chicken to a plate and set aside. Add 1 Tbs of oil, heat and add the onions, stirring and turning in the oil until they are coated with the pan juices and separated into rings. Lower the heat to medium and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened. (Be sure to get all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan stirred in as well.) Add ½ cup of stock as the pan begins to get dry. Raise heat to medium high and add garlic, ginger and red pepper flakes. Sauté for a minute, then add the next ½ cup of the stock. Add the celery, carrot, red bell pepper and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally until the vegetables have begun to soften. Add the barley and stir well to mix. Add 3 cups of stock, stir well. Taste and add remaining salt and pepper as needed (commercial stocks vary in saltiness; note that the barley will also absorb some saltiness). Raise heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cover with a lid or foil.

Simmer covered for 30-35 minutes (barley should be getting tender to the bite). Remove the lid, stir and then nest the chicken pieces in the vegetable and barley mixture, pressing them down so they are about half submerged. Pour any accumulated juices from the plate on top of the chicken. Sprinkle the paprika on the chicken. Raise the heat back to medium high. Cook uncovered until the chicken is cooked through and the barley is tender but still has a bit of resistance in the center. Most of the broth should be absorbed, but the mixture should have some liquid but not be soupy. (About 15-25 minutes). Serve in the pan or casserole or transfer to a platter, garnishing with the parsley.

Reheating Note: If you plan on reheating, undercook the dish and leave a bit more liquid. Be sure to cover it when reheating in the oven and be prepared to add a little water or stock if it begins to dry out. For best results, take the pot or casserole out of the fridge and allow it to come to room temperature before reheating.

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This article originally appeared in Temple Beth Abraham's Omer newsletter.

Charles Chocolates -- Bittersweet Truffles Just Like Chuck Siegel Makes

On the other side of the plate glass window, maybe a dozen people are peering intently at me. Why not, I must be a sight – wearing a black hairnet like some lunch lady, an oversized milk chocolate colored T-shirt covered with drips of real bittersweet chocolate and my hands covered in more of the stuff. I probably have cocoa powder all over me. I couldn’t care less, I’m at Charles Chocolates’ production facility in the San Francisco Bay area (Emeryville, CA) learning how to make truffles from owner Chuck Siegel, probably the sweetest man in chocolate. For more on my class, please check out my post on Sugar Savvy.

Much of the commercial kitchen at Charles Chocolates’ production facility can be viewed from a 40-foot long window. I imagine the gaping tour group was jealous because I got to go inside Chuck’s chocolate alchemy laboratory where everything comes out tasting golden. It was an amazing day and I hope you’ll check out the Sugar Savvy piece and read all about my experience and Charles Chocolates. Be sure to check out the website for info on the company, products, classes and other events, tours, newsletters and recipes.

Here’s one of the recipes we made that day. You can also find it on the website:

Bittersweet Chocolate Truffles(from Charles Chocolates website)

1 lb. bittersweet chocolate (Chuck recommends E. Guittard 72% or El Rey 71%), finely chopped.
1 cup organic heavy cream or whipping cream (preferably not “Ultra-Pasteurized”)
1 whole vanilla bean
8 ounces unsweetened cocoa powder

Instructions:
"In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the cream to a gentle boil. Remove from heat. Split the vanilla bean open and scrape out the vanilla seed into the cream and let steep for 10 minutes. Bring the cream back to a gentle boil over medium heat. Pour the cream over the finely chopped chocolate and let sit for 5 minutes.

"Whisk the chocolate and cream mixture together until very smooth. This is referred to as ganache, a mixture of chocolate and cream. Refrigerate in an airtight container, for at least 5 hours or overnight.

"Using a small melon baller or a small teaspoon, scoop small balls of ganache into your hand and roll until somewhat smooth and round. These should be approximately 1” in diameter. Place cocoa powder in a shallow bowl or pan. Roll the truffles in cocoa powder to coat.

"Truffles may be stored for up to two weeks at a cool room temperature (55-65 degrees) in an airtight container. Do not refrigerate or freeze; this damages the texture of the creamy ganache."
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Update 11/17/11: Sadly, Charles Chocolates went out of business this year not long after it moved its production facility and cafe to San Francisco.  The website (and links above) are no longer operational.  Sugar Savvy is long gone and the links for that as well, however, thanks to the Wayback Machine -- here's a link to my Charles Chocolate post. Also from the Wayback Machine is this link to the company's defunct website and its recipe page.

More From Las Vegas

I've borrowed my husband's laptop and thought I would take a minute and update on more Vegas food.

Had another good meal at Second Street Grille at the Fremont Hotel (downtown). This is the third time we've eaten there in the five times I've come for market. It is a wood paneled enclave inside a visually and aurally busy casino. The food is Pacific fusion, the service is seamless, the prices are reasonable. Like all downtown restos they have their steak, but you can also get many more imaginative dishes here.

Downtown Vegas is changing, more about that in another post. We also ate at the Golden Nugget Buffet (we ate there in January, too.) It served the purpose on a night when we were tired and everything that seemed more upgrade restaurants in DOWNTOWN Vegas (Fremont Street) were booked solid. On a Monday night.

We got a good pastrami sandwich and chopped liver (just a light snack) at Canter's Deli in Treasure Island, an otherwise avoidable casino. Warning, it's in a noisy corner of a noisy casino.

Thanks to a typo in a local magazine, we headed out to see the Rio's free show in the sky on a Wednesday night. The show was dark that night. (The mag had it on Mon - Thurs when it really was Thursday through Monday). We did feel we beat the system any how by taking a free shuttle from our trade show to Harrahs and a free shuttle from Harrahs to the Rio (which meant only one cab fare to get back to our hotel.)

Highlights of the Rio: the view from the Voodoo Steakhouse (or Lounge), the almost-there outfits of the cocktail waitresses (how do they keep that on was one question that came to mind) and the great stuff at the Rio gift shop. Lots of voodoo and skeleton themed merchandise from picture frames to shot glasses to sweatshirts, all really pretty reasonably priced. (FYI -- the steak and the bread (many types, all good) were the best things about the Voodoo Steakhouse, although the decor is tasty. Since you can't eat the walls, try one of Vegas' many other steak houses and just go to the lounge for a drink instead.)

I'm a girl who against all sense and sensibility likes a buffet. So since we were at the Rio anyway, we thought we'd check out the hotel's widely praised buffets for future consideration. Eeech. The seafood buffet ($38 each the night we were there) offers the usual assortment of king crab legs, mysterious seafood stews, and a few choices of sushi along with oysters. It was unappealing in very many ways, but the room was very cleverly decorated and designed. Feast with your eyes only. The regular buffet ($24 the night we were there), skipped the oysters, added more ethnic food (the Asian selections actually looked appealing), but also failed to impress us.

We will go back to the Rio to check out the free show in the sky (Mardi Gras floats and entertainers), to maybe bowl a few at the Lucky Strike Lanes and maybe walk across the street to the Palms and check out the restaurants there.

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About the photo: Vintage sign. Taken downtown at the Neon Musuem

Report from Las Vegas

I'm on one of my twice-yearly business trips to Las Vegas.
Unexpectedly we had some free time yesterday so we rented a car and drove to Hoover Dam. Much about the project (scope, construction, innovations, art deco design) are admirable. The location (in Black Canyon) is unbelievable. Some of the water history that led to its being built and the "spoiling" of such a natural wonder do leave some lingering questions.

On the way there we stopped at Boulder City. It was a "blast to the past." Once Nevada's largest city (population was then 7,000) it still retains elements of being a company town for the Six Companies, the corporations that banded together to build the mighty dam. Don't get me wrong there were lots of chain choices for fast food, but also lots of interesting seeming local ones. We at the Southwest Diner, where the prices, the quantity and the quality of the food were all very satisfactory. For under $10 you could get a pot roast dinner with soup or salad, mashed potatoes or fries, string beans and a dish of ice cream for dessert. The food and the decor at the restaurant were all on the homey side with lots of cutesy displays of Americana. The service was great. I had the taco salad and Gary had the pulled pork.

That night we tried the buffet at the Wynn. Many people had recommended it to us. It had all the requisite touches buffets in Vegas all have these days -- cooking stations with a variety of ethnic foods, lots of crab legs, sushi (a bit more limited than some), and a big carving station.
I particularly enjoyed the New Zealand lamb chops, the fig sauce from the grilled pork with fennel pollen (if the pollen was there it wasn't enough to either make me sneeze or taste it) and the wonderful selection of salads and cerviches. My big disappointment is that the dessert station ran out of candy apples before I could get one. While I thoroughly enjoyed the Wynn buffet, so far my favorite is the Le Village Buffet at the Paris.

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About the photos: Looking down from Hoover dam, neon red candy apples at the Wynn buffet.

My Night With Narsai -- An Exceptional Evening at Farallon

Are there wine pixies?

By that I mean wonderful, warm, witty, and knowledgeable individuals who sprinkle their affection for the fruit of the vine over the rest of us to make us more informed and discerning about our own wine choices without ever seeming condescending, judgmental or know-it-all.

If they do exist, I think I’ve just met one and I wish you could meet him, too.

Narsai David is a former restaurateur and a San Francisco radio personality. He has been involved in innumerable other food businesses as well having written the The Monday Night at Narsai's cookbook. He is a charming man with silver hair, an impeccably tailored suit and a colorful bow tie. He and his wife, Venus (or Veni as she is called), are also philanthropists, giving money, time, effort and even wine from their own outstanding cellar to help a variety of causes, including Alameda County (CA) Meals on Wheels, which provides meals to the homebound.

It was because of the Davids’ devotion to helping Meals on Wheels that a little wine pixie dust was spread on my life. Good friends were the successful bidders for a special dinner at the renowned San Francisco seafood restaurant Farallon. All the wines for the dinner were to be supplied by Narsai and Veni. The food was to be donated by Farallon and coordinated with the Davids’ wine selections.

It was a magical evening. Our friends had invited four other couples to join them and the Davids. Stepping into Farallon was otherworldly with a décor kind of like if Alice in Wonderful had been set under the sea or if Little Mermaid had been designed by Dali. We were ushered to a private room and immediately received some of the best service we have had in a restaurant. We were also immediately handed flutes of champagne and offered oysters, caviar and a goat cheese and brandied cherry appetizer.

We went on to sample three different kinds of champagne, all the while having Narsai tell the story of why he chose them for each appetizer. The champagne that made the greatest impression on me was the 1979 Schramsberg Blanc De Blancs. It tasted slightly of caramelized sugar and its effervescence just barely registered on my tongue, but I was smitten. Narsai explained how he and Veni prefer older champagne. I had tasted the proof and had to agree.

Before we sat down to the dinner, Narsai produced a bottle of sherry originally made in 1871. The sherry was amazing – strong, more like a shot of liquor than a fortified wine, but still smooth with clear, tawny notes. I had two glasses while I listened to Narsai describe how he found and procured the wine.

Then came dinner. The first course was seared Mediterranean rouget (red mullet) with Dungeness crab “thighs.” The Davids served a 2000 Stony Creek Chardonnay with it. As I sipped and ate, Narsai told us about how the wine with its lean flintiness was chosen to compliment the dish. With every bite and slurp I had to agree with the wisdom of his choice.

With the half of lobster roasted in butter and served with English pea ravioli and orange fondue sauce, Narsai had chosen a 2005 Salus, Staglin Family Vineyard Chardonnay, feeling that it would offset the lushness of the dish. I know he said more about this including why the 2000 Chardonnay tasted younger to us, but at this point I was reluctant to give up my Stony Creek and I was really focused on my Maine lobster.

Next came two red wines with the whole roasted Creekstone Farms filet of beef with morels, fava beans and sauce Bordelaise (which I could have drunk on its own). Both were from 1974, but I preferred the Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon. Narsai spoke a bit about why wines will age differently and kindly answered wine question after question.

The desserts (a lemon balm meringue tart and a German chocolate sundae) were served with a 1966 Chateau Sudiraut. The wine was sweet, but with a nice edge. It was also very strong, I could only manage a few sips, but did manage to finish both desserts and pay attention to Narsai’s discussion about the advantages of noble rot. (I wish I had been a better reporter and taken more notes, but to be honest, I was having too much fun being a guest.)

After dinner Narsai uncorked a 1962 Hine Grande Champagne Cognac. It was a dream of a cognac, smooth and strong and satisfying after our elaborate meal. Narsai was explaining the difference between grande and petite champagne at that point (I think), but I was lost in the vapors and plush taste of the cognac.

The evening was grand. The Davids were great. And special thanks to our hosts, Farallon restaurant and to my husband for being a designated driver that night.
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About the photos: Top - Narsai David. Middle -- 1871 Sherry. Bottom -- Menu for the evening.

Photos from Chinese Dumpling Class

Here are the photos from the last in a series of cooking classes I took at the Oakland Asian Cultural Center. This one was on Chinese dumplings and we made it all from wrapper to dipping sauce. There were two fillings -- one pork and one vegetarian. Watch for more on this class, but until then please enjoy the slide show.

Here's the link to see the photos in the album without the slide show.

Summer Slowdown

Actually my schedule seems to speed up during summer, which means the time I have available to write and post dwindles and my output slows down. Since the last entry I've been to a family camp for a week in the Sierras, Los Angeles for a family party and I leave soon for a week in Las Vegas for business. Then I'm home for a bit and we take off again to the family camp (our older son is a staffer). Then I'm off to visit my sisters back East. I look forward to fall as a vacation from my vacations.

I took this photo (I absolutely loved the sign) at Zuma Beach in Los Angeles. The food pretty much amounted to ice cream, chips, corn dogs and sodas, but the sign was great. If and when I ever do a major redesign, the photo is on the short list of graphics for the banner.

I have been eating, cooking, researching and interviewing (and of course taking photos) I hope to get caught up sooner or later.

Hope you are enjoying your summer as much as I am mine.

Berried Treasure -- Strawberry Sorbet with a Little Something Extra

Cook Sister! is an informative and well written food blog by a South African living in London. Cook Sister! is also hosting the monthly food blogging event "Waiter There's Something in My ..." This month's theme is berries, or as Cook Sister! puts it "berried treasure."

Since my husband has never driven by a farmstand he won't at least check out, I was overstocked with juicy, jammy sweet berries straight from their growers. They were wonderful by themselves, but there were so many I needed to do something to preserve them since we couldn't eat them all fresh.

I thought I would make a strawberry sorbet and include a blackberry swirl. Well it turns out you can lead a berry puree to an ice cream machine, but you can't make it swirl. I improvised a bit, found another way to put bits of berries into the dessert and turned the blackberry puree into a sauce and this patriotic-looking red, white and blue dessert packed with the taste of that sweet farmstand fruit was born just in time for July 4th.

Once the "Berried Treasure" round up appears, I'll include a link, but here's Cook Sister's invitation to come out and play. If you'd like to join in, you have until July 6.

Berried Treasure Sorbet
Approximately 8 Servings

The preserves can be left out if desired, but I think they add a bit of texture, pretty flecks of color and a nice jolt of flavor. They also seem to not freeze as rock hard as bits of fresh berries sometimes seem to. See below for directions for making the sorbet without an ice cream maker.

Sorbet
1 and 1/2 cups strawberry puree (about 2 pints of strawberries)
1 and 1/2 cups simple syrup (see note below)
juice of 1/2 lime
3 tablespoons or to taste, boysenberry, blackberry or blueberry preserves (the kind with bits of fruit -- I used Trader Joe's boysenberry)

Combine puree with syrup and lime juice. Refrigerate until cold. Put into ice cream maker and follow manufacturer's instructions. When the sorbet is almost soft set, with the blade or container continuing to move, add preserves by tablespoon. When preserves are well distributed and sorbet is finished, pack into a freezer-safe container and freeze for an hour or two to harden before serving.

Blackberry Sauce
1/2 cup of blackberry puree or juice without seeds. (About 1 pint of blackberries put through a food mill OR pureed and then pushed through a sieve.)
1/2 cup simple syrup

Combine puree or juice with syrup in a sauce pan. Cook over medium heat stirring occasional until the mixture has cooked done to half its volume. You'll have about a 1/2 cup of sauce. Cool.

To serve, drizzle sauce over sorbet. Top with a jot of whipped cream and a fresh berry. Any leftover sauce can be used with abandon over pancakes, etc.

A Note About Not-So-Simple Syrup
Simple syrup is nothing more than sugar cooked into water until is "melts" into a liquid. Whenever you are cooking sugar, be careful of burning (both of you and the sugar in the pot). The traditional ratio is 1:1 sugar to water. This will result in a smoother, less icy sorbet with a bit more sweetness. At our house, my usual ratio is more like 1/2 to 3/4 cup sugar to 1 cup water, but we like our sorbets on the tarter, grainier and icier side. Taste your berries and let them be your guide to how sweet you need your simple syrup to be. Remember that when the sorbet mix is frozen it will taste less sweet than it does before it is frozen and adjust accordingly. (I used the 1:1 ratio for the sorbet shown above.)

Adaption for Those Without Ice Cream Makers
Once the strawberry puree-simple sugar mix is cold, pour it into a metal pan or other freezer safe container that is wide and flat. Stir in the preserves, making sure the the bits are well distributed. Place in the freezer and stir and scrape the mixture every half hour or so until frozen. Remove from the freezer about 20 minutes or so before serving and scrape with a fork to break up and serve. The result will be grainier but just as tasty.
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Info for weight watchers. Figuring eight servings and allowing for each serving to have 1/8 of the blackberry sauce (which would be a lot), a single serving would be equal to about 3 points (using 1-1/2 cups of sugar and 1-1/2 cups of water for the simple syrup used in the sorbet and syrup recipes).
Want to see some of my other sorbet recipes (tangerine, lychee and hibiscus tea), click here?

Euro Soccer Championships

Any one else have a household following the European soccer championship games?
The big finale is this Sunday and it is Germany vs. Spain. My guys are talking soccer, I'm talking menu. Watch this space for what I whip up. Got some ideas for me -- either based on German or Spanish food traditions -- leave a note below.

Update: The game has just started! I decided on an unconventional tortilla espana made with potato chips. I've made it before and it was great! I'll post some pix and directions later. Now, back to the game.

Click and Win -- Cookbook Sweepstakes from DK Publishing

One of my favorite cookbook publishers is having a summer sweepstakes. Entries are due July 7, so if you want to participate, get clicking! Here's the info directly from DK:

Summer cuisine is all about grilling and cooking light. This summer, DK has two fabulous new cookbooks to help you do both - GRILL IT! and SPAIN AND THE WORLD TABLE. Don’t miss this opportunity to enter our Summer Cookbook Sweepstakes and have the chance to win a copy of these great books and a set of kitchen utensils from the Culinary Institute of America (Total Approximate Retail Value: $159.00).

No purchase necessary. Entries must be received no later than July 7, 2008 11:59 Eastern Time. Winner will be selected on or about July 14, 2008. Void where prohibited by law. Open to residents of the Continental United States and the District of Columbia ages 18 and older.
Click here for complete details and Official Rules.